Take a pig living outdoors with space to run around. It is fed additive-free foods (spare fruit from the greengrocers, malted barley from the local brewery, etc) and is free to forage in the earth. It is just as happy as an organic pig, it lives just as long and eats just as well. However, unlike an organic pig it lacks the certificate hanging on the sty-wall, its feed bags lack the magic word, and the packaging for the sausages it makes contains no mention of it. The result is a product which tastes as good, has the same ethical credentials and still has impeccable provenance, but does not cost a fortune.
This is why the Italians have not embraced organics as the British have. They refuse to pay the Soil Association a fee to tell them that the meat they buy is good quality and refuse to delegate such an important part of eating well.
The Soil Association is, as we know, a trade union for organic farmers. And just like any other trade union they exist to increase the incomes of their members at the expense of everyone else (that\’s not a criticism by the way, that\’s simply a description of what a union does). And just like any union, guild or company they attempt to do that by creating barriers to entry and a brand which people will pay a premium for.
Buy it if you wish, just as you might buy Heinz baked beans instead of supermarket own. But it is that brand that you\’re buying.