Now I am biased against all regional food, regardless of the region. Though I am a convinced regionalist in matters of literature and art, I am unapologetically metropolitan when I eat. This is because regional food is almost invariably peasant food and I am not a peasant. Neither, as a rule, are the people cooking it in city restaurants. Regional food when it is rural food is an affectation of poverty and why eat as the poor once ate when you don\’t have to?
That the peasantry of an area managed to make something or other out of the limited resources of the region doesn\’t mean that those of us who are not peasants and not restricted to the resources of the region sould eat as those peasants.
Some of those regional peasant foods have, because they are delicious, gone global. Neapolitan pizza for example. Those that haven\’t, haven\’t, because they are not delicious.
Competition works you see? That food which is delicious conquers the world. That interesting boar tonsil recipe stays where only boar tonsils are available.