Left-wing opponents accuse the organisers of using the pork-heavy menus with a side of patriotic conviviality to ostracise Muslims and disguise a far-Right political project before the presidential elections.
Well, right-wing plot is a bit too far but:
Inside a packed market, a crowd of 1,800 belts out the Marseillaise, hunting horns sound and roars erupt as Asterix and Obelix rush past, banging a giant magic potion pot.
As local charcuterie is served and wine flows, classic French songs such as Michel Delpech’s 1974 Le Chasseur prompt guests to rise from their long wooden tables, sing, sway and dance.
Long lines of conga form but suddenly scatter when the DJ announces: “Le cochon, le cochon.” Pork is served.
The setting could scarcely be more French and for the guests, many clad in berets and stripy tops, that is precisely the point.
They have gathered in the central city of Bourges for the latest iteration of a phenomenon sweeping France: banquets géants, or giant banquets, mass feasts built around traditional food, wine, music and a celebration of all things français.
They are trying to ostracise those non-French in that cultural sense. They’re doing so very well.
“This is us, this is ours”, however exaggerated and over the top, is indeed meant to be exclusive of those who are not us, ours.
Having been right the lefties then get it wrong again. What the Hell is wrong with indigenes being indigenous?